Busy, sophisticated Buenos Aires, the capital, seems like a city that took a wrong turn at the Equator. Stroll down Florida Avenue and you’ll think the city should be in Europe—and if you stop and ask the residents, they will probably tell you they think so, too. You will soon discover that Argentina is a patchwork of immigrants from around the world: Argentina has been called a nation of Italians who speak Spanish and think they’re British.

But venture out into Argentina’s countryside and all thoughts of cosmopolitan city life fall away. You’ll be overtaken by nature: the subtropical lowlands and awesome Iguazu waterfalls in the north; the monumental Andes mountains lining the west; the blankets of rich, rolling soil in the central pampas; and the glacial lakes of Patagonia and bleak, windswept steppes of Tierra del Fuego to the south. The beauty and variety will fill you with awe.

Argentina has long been one of the most developed countries in Latin America. (Prior to World War I, Argentina was the sixth richest nation in the world.) However, the past 50 years have seen a cycle of elections, coups, countercoups and a steady erosion of the nation’s wealth. The country hit bottom in the 1970s, when a series of military governments instigated the Dirty War, an anticommunist witch-hunt that caused the “disappearance” of almost 12,000 men, women and children. In hopes of deflecting attention from their failed policies, the armed forces fought—and lost—a war with Great Britain over the Falkland Islands (known as Las Malvinas in Argentina). As a result, the ruling junta of generals and admirals was ousted and Argentina returned to constitutional government. The election in 1989 of President Carlos Menem marked the century’s first orderly transfer of power from one civilian government to another. Economic problems have continued to trouble the country, though the government seems to have tamed its terrible inflation, which once reached a dizzying 5,000% a year.

Despite the country’s periodic hard times, its citizens, especially the Portenos (as the residents of Buenos Aires are called), retain a sophisticated flair. To get a good sense of the soul of Argentina, sit in a Buenos Aires cafe and absorb the life going on around you. Argentina reminds us of a beautiful, exiled princess who, although somewhat down at the heels, still carries herself like royalty.

Travelers Advisory: While Argentina is one of South America’s safer destinations, the number of crimes reported against tourists has risen in recent years, especially in Buenos Aires and at the international airport. Pickpockets and purse snatchers are especially active, but muggings are also becoming more frequent. Avoid taxis parked curbside. Hail a moving taxi instead, or better still, ask someone at your hotel or restaurant to call a taxi for you. Use common sense and be aware of your surroundings. Leave all valuables in your hotel’s safe.

For the latest advisories, call the U.S. Department of State Overseas Citizens Services (202-647-5225), the Canadian Travel Advisory Line (800-267-6788 in Canada or 613-944-6788 outside Canada), the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office (0171-238-4503) or the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade, Consular Operations Section (02-6261-3305).